I just got some feedback from jaap, he successfully built himself a 2S pepperFIISH pocketrocket. His build features the new Racerstar BR1103B motors and uses the new frame design. Looks like he is having some serious fun with it! Jaap writes:
I’ve been having so much fun with this new micro quad. It’s amazingly small, bul hauls ass like nothing i’ve ever seen on this size. This is a pure joy to fly. Flying micro size drones no longer means having to hold back. This little beast can take it all. Powerloops, buildingdiving, racing. You name it.
But see yourself, his footage shows much better what this beast can do than all my crippled flight videos not showing much more than me trying not to crash it. 😉 Thanks for the video jaap!
UPDATE: He just added a second video of him diving a windmill:
As always, if you built some of my stuff drop me an email, I am happy to hear about your stories and to see how it turned out for you!
Keep on flying!
Which one you will rcommend?
out of stock
I am using this one. Not sure if the weight saving is worth the bad connector. I always fear to rip it apart. I do not like the red jst either…
do convert the battery connector some how?
I ordered both version but I m not sure which connector I should use. I was thinking maybe to solder one of red JST as well!?
Many thanks in advance.
You can use both. The red JST is listed to withstand more current so in principle it is better. I just do not like it because it is hard to separate and I once managed to plugg one into a copter in the reversed way on accident…
One question: Today i receive this frame (new version) from Armattan production and set of BR1103B motors, but they dont fit on the frame. Middle hole for motor shaft (on the arms) is too small and shaft C-clip cannot fit inside.
To Simon, was this the case in your build? I can drill the hole a little bit. I hope that i will not destroy the frame 🙂
Maybe update of the frame is not bad idea? Bugger hole, from current 3.5 mm to maybe 4.2 mm, because C-clip on BR1103B is 4.0
I still did not receive my frames from armattan 🙁
But Jaap reported the same, a fixed version is currently under approval by armattan 🙂
It’s fine to drill it bigger, use some wood as counterpresure and drill it in the bathroom sink with some flowing water (the dust is very toxic). Ah and do not use drills you want to keep sharp, cfk seems to eat drills.
Yes, i know 🙂
Thanks for info.
Also, banggood sent wrong screws with the motors 🙂 They are trying to slow me down in my build 🙂
Hi fishpepper! Is this an updated version of the frame that has bigger motor holes?
I just ordered it last night!
Also, just curious how well it stands up to crashes, in your experience? It’s listed as only 1mm thick on the Armattan page, which makes me nervous that it won’t handle my frequent crashes that well 😉
This one should fit the 1103B motors. It survives crashes quite well as the copter is so light 😉 It strongly depends on the underground you crash into 😉
How did you solve the camera problem. My camera says not to use more that 5V. A 2S is 7.4 Plus. I burned up two cameras trying to get it to work. I all set to go but for the camera. I’m looking into stepup/stepdown boards. but can’t find enough current at 3.3v. Does your camera handle the 7.4V? Any help would be appreciated.
I used the Pololu D24V5F3 step-down. See this post for the parts I currently use on my builds.
The Pololu S7V7F5 is even smaller and is a step up / down converter to 5v. Can handle 2.7v – 11.8v – keep it 1s/2s compatible!
Wow nice build and nice flight which battery u use?
I think he is using the same batteries as I do (Turnigy nano 2S 300mAh)
Yes correct, I use these 300mAh 2S nano tech batteries. They’re great.
I just noticed that mine are actualle the 45-90C variant of these lipo’s