pepperFIISH
I finally found some time to take my new 2S version of the pepperF1SH quadcopter for a walk fly:
It was quite gusty that day but most of the time I did not notice it in flight. This was just some thrust testing, turn on the speakers, it sounds really creepy for such a small copter. The copter in the video weighted in at ~38grams including battery and all FPV gear. The battery was probably too weak, I used two of my turnigy nano 200mAh batteries in series. I am not sure if that one can cope with 80C bursts… I will probably switch to the turnigy nano 300mAh 2S packs soon 🙂
First I have my pepperfish completed unfortunately 2 of the motors were DOA so I’m waiting for more before I can fly it. I also upgraded my Gremlin frame to 2S ESC. Everything works but the camera. I have blown out 2 cameras so far. How are you powering your camera? I see that there is some sort of 3.3 volt out on the flight controller but it doesn’t have enough current to power the camera. Please let me know how you have wired your camera and the model of camera you are using. I just don’t understand the problem. On my big drones I have 5V available on the PDB. Help I want to fly.
I used a Pololu D24V5F3 stepdown 😉
See my recent build log about the parts i currently use.
Wow, this is seriously impressive. I was going to post a comment on the tinyPepper page to ask how/if it would handle the stress of 3D flight (motor reversing) then I read about the 4.2v rated part that is right on the limit and figured that the braking spikes due to reversing would be added stress and likely cause a failure.
Having seen this I think I’ll wait to (hopefully if you release it) build the pepperFIISH esc instead and run a machine on either 1s or 2s.
Would you consider releasing it as open source to identified users or something for personal use e.g. via email rather than straight up publishing it? Make people prove that they aren’t one of the big copycat companies and then give them the details. Of course this would then rely on them being honest and not on selling or handing over the information to said copycats but it’s just an idea that might be possible as a middle of the road given you clearly love the open source ideal. I think we’re all (the flying community) grateful for the work you’ve done here and I know I for one am impressed, I haven’t yet found the time to order/build any of your designs but I’ll definitely be doing it. One of the reasons is wanting 3D capability (even though that’s a big ask from the tiny hardware) even if it’s not amazing, though this 2S version looks like it will do the job!
Either way, keep up the good work dude!
Tim
I already ordered some PCB’s for tinyPEPPER ESC v0.5 which are curently the 1S version. I plan to do some modifications to the board to run on 2S, I don’t think it would be hard: just separate the VCC for the uC’s supply and provide them with the same voltage that the FC is running: 3.1 or 3.3V for example and provide supply to the MOSFETs directly from the 2S battery. It should be fine, right?
Unfortunately this will not work. The high side fets will not switch properly. Google for p channel mosfet control and read about the required voltage difference between gate and source.
have you found some small mosfet driver?
Hi,
What is the absolute miniturized size for 3s ESCs you think is possible with current components for 8-9A?
Eachine offers one 20a but 20×20
http://m.banggood.com/Micro-20x20mm-20A-2-4S-4-In-1-BLHeli_S-DSHOT600-ONESHOT-FPV-Racing-Brushless-ESC-p-1133222.html
Do you think 16×16 is possible?
I know the current bottleneck are the lipos.
but gaoneng gnb is currently the leather with 80/160c & 350/400mAh. so you know what I’m going to tell you. Next level: dys 1104 6500/7000 on 3s.
Greeting from Vienna.
I think 3S on 16×16 will be hard. Maybe some day in the future. For now I am working on the 2S version 😉
What about these?
http://www.banggood.com/10X-2mm-Gold-Bullet-Banana-Connector-Plug-For-ESC-Battery-Motor-p-946666.html?rmmds=search
0.6gr
Regards Arne
XT30 weights 1.65 g both male/female
Thanks for the number! Thats 5% of the copters weight… I think I will stay with the JST PH2 for now (they are rated at 2A :-X).
are you still rocking the 1103 8000kv motors?
Yes, 8000KV on 56mm ladybird or JJRC props
That punchout is scary ! This is going to be awesome 😀
I think the connectors on the battery should be changed to something that can take some more amps 😛
I use the JST PH 2.0 connectors (2 and 3 pin versions). I had those on my LKTR120 and they seem to work quite well. I do not like those red JST connectors, they are so hard to separate. Any recommendations?
The XT30 are still a little overkill, right?
5% of the copters weight sounds a lot :-\
Simon I agree regarding the difficulty in separating the JST but they are a more robust plug with a higher current carrying capacity than the Micro Losi / Walkera style. I have found that you can file down the sides of the plug a touch to make pulling them apart much easier but yes we should not have to resort to this.
The original JST PH 2 are rated at 10mOhm (or 2 0mOhm after repeated use). This should be ok for our application. Hovering current should be quite low.
According to the JST-Connector page on wikipedia the VH series is rated for up to 10A but the connector itself seems to be pretty big.
The smallest of the 3A capable connectors is the PA series.
Another alternative would be using 4pins and combining 2 for plus and minus each…
The idea with multiple pins sounds good. With the JST PH it would give you at least 4A continous current.